βΉPsyri & MonastirakiβΊ
Flea-market lanes, street art, tavernas and bars packed into the old commercial centre.
Vibe: β Alternative Β· β Trendy Β· β Classic Β· β Posh Β· β Must-see Price: β¬ cheap Β· β¬β¬ mid Β· β¬β¬β¬ expensive (Google's per-person range) βΈ = temporarily closed on Google
ποΈ Neighbourhoods
ποΈ 1Psiri (Psyrri)
A former craftsmen's quarter next to Monastiraki, now packed with tavernas, bars, street art and late-night music. It is fairly alternative and gritty-bohemian (but busy with visitors), with no poshness at all.
ποΈ 2Monastiraki
The busy square, metro hub and flea market below the Acropolis, full of souvenir and vintage stalls and rooftop bars with views. Lively and mainstream-touristy, with a slightly scruffy edge. Not posh.
π½οΈ Eat: tavernas & restaurants
π½οΈ 3Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani
πΊ beer β¬4.5 Β· π· wine β¬4β6.50 Β· π½οΈ plate β¬6.50β8.50
A deli and charcuterie shop with a busy meze restaurant attached, serving pastirma, soutzouki, cured meats, cheeses and Anatolian-Greek small plates with ouzo, tsipouro and wine. It is built on the cured-meat traditions of the Karamanlides, Anatolian Greek-Orthodox refugees. Fanis Theodoropoulos continues his family's 1920s pastirma trade, and the restaurant has occupied its corner neoclassical building since 2014.
π½οΈ 4Linou Soumpasis & Sia (LS & SIA)
A hyped modern-Greek neo-taverna and bistro in a former candle shop in Psyrri. It is dinner-focused with a natural-wine list and no cocktail menu, reservations needed, Michelin Plate 2024-2025. Opened in December 2021 by Myrsini Linou and George Soumpasis, it is also a shop, natural-candle maker and creative office, and hosts exhibitions and record launches.
π½οΈ 5Cafe Avissinia
π½οΈ plate β¬13
An old-school taverna and mezedopoleio on the Monastiraki flea-market square, mainly a sit-down meal place, on three levels with an Acropolis-view rooftop terrace. There is live folk music (accordion, piano) at weekends from September to June. Ketty Koufonikola opened it in 1986, and the interior is cluttered with antiques.
πΈ Bars: cocktails & wine
πΈ 6Wine is Fine
π· wine β¬6β9 Β· π½οΈ plate β¬10β13
A French-bistro-style natural-wine bar that works as a small restaurant, with a full seasonal menu of French-Greek small plates and white tablecloths on pedestrian Vissis St. It is walk-in only with a long waitlist. Two Frenchmen, Rafael Wallon-Brownstone and Thomas Brengou, run it with Greek chef Stavros Chrysafidis, in a 70s-chic interior.
πΈ 7Booze Cooperativa (K.O.T.E.S.)
πΊ beer β¬8
A multi-level arty bar and cultural space with galleries and a performance basement, open from late morning. By day people come for coffee, chess and backgammon, and at night it turns into a loud bar with indoor smoking. Founded in 1989 in a neoclassical building, it has also been the headquarters of K.O.T.E.S., a tongue-in-cheek smokers' party, since 2018.
πΈ 8Cantina Social
πΈ cocktail β¬6.50β10
An unsigned courtyard and garden bar at the end of an alley off Leokoriou in Psyrri/Thiseio. It is a cafΓ© by day and a dance bar at night with resident DJs (techno, indie, disco), cheap drinks and late hours. It is set in an old lodge and is a locals' hangout.
πΈ 9Couleur Locale
πΈ cocktail β¬12 Β· πΊ beer β¬6
An all-day rooftop bar and bistro in a Monastiraki arcade by the flea market, with a direct Acropolis view. Coffee and brunch by day, then a cocktail bar with DJs and jazz, soul and rock at night, plus light food. It opened in 2014 on the top floor of a shabby-looking building.
πΈ 10TAF - The Art Foundation
A courtyard cafΓ©-bar in an art complex with galleries and a shop, in 1870s residential buildings around a tree-filled courtyard. Coffee by day, beers and simple cocktails at night, with an arty young crowd and underground music. It has run since about 2014.
πΈ 11RetirΓ© (at Ergon House)
πΈ cocktail β¬13 Β· πΊ beer β¬6
A seasonal (April to October) third-floor rooftop bar on the Ergon House food hall and hotel, with Acropolis views. Cocktails by The Clumsies come from a cocktail truck, with Greek wines, beers and light bites. Casual and walk-in only.
ποΈ Shops & books
ποΈ 12Hyper Hypo
Independent bookstore for art, design, photography, architecture, fashion and pop culture, with a project space for talks, launches and exhibitions; also sells posters and prints.